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Modern rope bag


The rope bag was created by the US Army during World War II and was rediscovered by paddlers in the mid-1970s.


It's probably the most basic and useful rescue tool, although it remains dangerous if misused. Every paddler should have one and know how to use it.


It is a versatile tool, used in several scenarios: helping a swimmer in distress, recovering a victim stuck in the river with lateral release techniques, making a zipline to cross the river, attaching a rescuer for a roped swimmer technique, making mechanical advantage systems (stuck boat), etc.


The market offers a vast array of options, and it's easy to get lost in the choices (hence the idea for this blog post). This is purely my personal perspective and is aimed at recreational whitewater paddlers.





Throwing rope vs. pull rope


We can divide rope bags into 2 categories: rope for throwing (human) and rope for pulling (equipment).


It's like choosing between a road bike and a mountain bike versus a hybrid bike. You can choose a hybrid rope bag or a rope bag specifically designed for your needs.


In general, the range of ropes extends between 15 and 25 meters in length, between 6 and 11 mm in diameter and between 1000 and 3000 lbs in resistance.


For a throw bag, the priority is being able to reach a swimmer in distress from the shore (or, exceptionally, from a boat). The emphasis is on the ease of throwing the bag efficiently and accurately. I too often see people unable to throw their bag correctly because it's too big (the bag 😅 ). Here, the rope strength is of little importance. Instead, you choose a rope based on your size and the types of water you plan to paddle. This type of rope bag is suitable for the vast majority of paddlers.


For a tow rope, the priority is to be able to create more complex systems where rope strength and better grip are more important (but this reduces maneuverability). For example, to ensure the safety of a rescuer (roped swimmer), retrieve equipment (Z-drag), etc.


You can also choose a hybrid string that's good at everything, but excellent at nothing.


Generally, for day trips, you'll want to focus on an easy-to-throw rope, while for more demanding outings, such as rafting or canoeing expeditions, you'll want at least one rope for the trip (a thicker/stronger rope). Easy-to-throw ropes will therefore meet the needs of most paddlers.


This is why the CSRQ (Quebec River Safety Consortium) recommends different ropes depending on the level of training: 15m \ 8mm \ 2500 lbs for TR1 training (emphasis on casting) and 20m \ 9.5mm for TR2 (emphasis on mechanical rescues).





General principles


  • Rope + whitewater = danger

In a TR1 course at CSRQ, you will learn how to use a rope bag safely and thus not endanger anyone's life (maybe even save someone's).

  • Only for horizontal rescue, not designed for vertical rescue.

  • Rope = knife. One cannot exist without the other.



With and without a belt


With belt: rafting, canoeing, paddleboarding and professional rescue.

Without belt: kayak, packraft



Wearing a rope bag around the waist is a practice sometimes adopted by a community, sometimes not. I believe I can safely say that there is now a consensus among instructors and professionals that it is preferable to wear the rope bag around the waist if our discipline allows it. This method lost much of its popularity in Quebec following a fatal accident caused by a rope bag worn around the waist (early 2000s). That said, techniques, equipment, and attitudes have evolved, and after assessing the risks, many will opt for wearing the bag around the waist (with a belt).


A lifebelt means the rope is instantly available and impossible to forget during a reconnaissance. It allows you to be much faster and more efficient, where every second saved can mean the difference between a comical capsize and a nasty swim. It also allows you to remain operational (thanks, Alain!) even after swimming or separating from your boat, and for unexpected situations, such as during a reconnaissance when the local "beater" decides to send the rapids without warning.


For some disciplines like kayaking, it's simply too inconvenient for most people to wear a rope bag around their waist (the seated position, spray skirt, and PFD leave no room for a belt). Therefore, the rope bag (without a belt) is simply attached in the kayak, ready for quick deployment.



Old school vs. modern


With or without a belt, the shape of the bag and a few key features distinguish a rope bag, used since the days of bucket boats, from a modern rope bag. Details in the next section.



A side note. Old-school practices that should no longer exist: attaching the rope bag with the opening facing down, outside the raft. Leaving a length of rope hanging out of the bag. Leaving a knot at the end of the rope. Throwing a rope bag still attached after the raft.


🥕 Carrots style 🥕


Carrot bag: a conical rope bag with a generous opening that allows the bag to be filled easily, allows a reliable closure of the bag with a Velcro strip and allows a much better grip on the bag for both an underhand throw (softball) and an overhand throw (baseball or tomahawk).


It was only very recently that I heard this term (which apparently comes from the Russians) from Zac in this video (1 min 28 sec): https://youtu.be/jSZL4Qz5nv4?si=WBzMugXcr0GqdrqX . I've searched everywhere (I have pretty much every rescue manual available) and I can't find the reference anywhere. Clearly, I'm the only one who didn't get the memo, because looking at the manufacturers' color choices, it's clear they have references I don't!



Other key features


  • Belt: The system that secures the rope bag is very important, and not all bags are created equal. Some systems will prevent the rope from accidentally coming loose (and therefore potentially getting stuck at the bottom of the river = deadly danger), while other systems leave me more perplexed.

Models with a protective flap give me 100% confidence; an accidental release of the rope would be extremely surprising.

The models with the belt strap that goes through a plastic eyelet to cover the bag opening leave me 50/50. Popular on older bag models.

Belts where the strap goes directly into the bag without any redundancy to close the opening. I don't recommend this type of bag for wearing with a belt (in the bottom of a boat = okay).



  • Adherence to the Clean Principle. In recent years, several methods have emerged to reduce the risk of snagging the knot that normally dangles outside the bag. This snagging risk is significant because this is the end of the rope that ends up in the river (and can get caught between two rocks, for example). A knot on this end of the rope is essential to prevent losing the bag, but also to quickly attach the rope to an anchor, a boat, a swimmer, etc. Among the innovations I've seen is a small webbing loop (Palm rope bag) to which the knot is attached from inside the bag. I've also seen a knot that remains inside the bag, with only the end accessible from the outside. My favorite system is the small padded pouch (WWTC and Sol Gear) which allows you to leave a carabiner on the bag at all times, without risk of injuring a victim to whom the bag is thrown. In a case where the person receiving the bag does not have a carabiner on them to connect the bag to their boat or tow rope, this system can be very practical (otherwise, you cannot leave a carabiner on the bag for fear of injuring the receiver).




  • Bag closure system.

Velcro closure > drawstring (risk of snagging) .

  • Buoyancy: foam block inside the bag ensuring the bag's buoyancy and rope with a polypropylene sheath (outer covering of the rope) which allows the rope to float on the water.

  • Colour: a choice of bright colours (red, orange, yellow) makes it more visible in the brown water of Quebec.

  • Quick-release buckle on the belt. A quick-release buckle allows the belt to be released quickly if necessary by simply pulling on the strap. I do not recommend using a pull-cord for those using a life jacket with a quick-release belt to avoid confusion between the two belts in an emergency.

  • PVC case. Very abrasion resistant (same material as rafts). For intensive use (we use our bags 100+ days a year), this allows us to change the case (the belt) before the bag, which is much cheaper.

  • Glow stick attachment. For "night run" enthusiasts, attaching a glow stick to your rope bag is a good idea to increase visibility.


  • Information about the rope (length, thickness, strength). In the same way that a climbing rope is identified, an identified rope bag rope allows for much greater precision in several rescue scenarios (e.g., knowing the limits of your system when setting up a mechanical advantage system).


  • Attachment loop for securing the bag to your boat. Less stressful for your Canadian Tire rope bag, but very useful for your fancy rope bag that cost you a week's wages.

  • Strap loop that makes filling the bag much easier, even with cold and wet hands.


  • Rope diameter: Yes, for strength (a larger diameter generally means stronger), but also very important for the swimmer's comfort and grip. Grabbing a thin rope is much more uncomfortable (even risking burns) compared to a thick one. 6 mm is the bare minimum and not comfortable. 8 mm and above, and it starts to get uncomfortable.

  • Reflective strip: because it makes sense in low light conditions

  • Drainage: Personally, I don't think I've noticed any difference between bags with and without drainage... but many bags have a mesh section or a drainage eyelet. Personally, it's low on my priority list...

  • Rope strength. Often debated, although for the majority of people it doesn't really matter since retrieving swimmers in distress (throwing bag) doesn't require much strength and a well-maintained rope will do the job perfectly.

Various materials of varying strengths can be used. In general, strings with a Spectra/Dyneema/Kevlar core will be much stronger than strings with a polypropylene core.

Here is a table that represents a sample of the strings available on the market.



Interview

  • Dirt accumulates and significantly reduces the lifespan of your rope. Clean with water and mild soap at least once a season or machine wash in a mesh bag.

  • Always dry your rope in the open air, away from the sun, in a cool and dry place.

  • Inspect your rope. Is there a "melted" area of the rope? Is the core visible? Has it been exposed to excessive sunlight?

  • Change the bag at the end of the rope from time to time to avoid creating a weakness in the rope.


Enemy = wear and tear (sand, rock, etc.) and the sun.


  • Intensive use (every day): 1 year

  • Regular use (weekend or seasonal): 3 years

  • Occasional: 5 years

  • Maximum: 7 years after first use (if washed and stored properly)

  • Maximum if ever used: 10 years


If in doubt, change your string.



So, which bag should you choose?


What will you be doing with your rope most of the time? Day trips kayaking close to civilization or multi-day rafting trips without any possible outside help?


For most people (except for expeditions or rescue specialists), the priority is reaching a swimmer in distress. Then come considerations of more technical rope systems.


For a throwing rope, first choose one based on your size and strength. Ideally, take a class where you can try several models before deciding which one to buy. I find it illogical when an instructor asks a student to buy a bag BEFORE trying several sizes to understand which one suits them best.


If I had to choose just one all-purpose rope, it would probably be around 18m 8mm. Unlimited budget? A throwing rope (with a belt) around 20-25m / 6-7mm + 1 pulling rope for challenging outings around 20-25m / 10-11mm.


Personal recommendations


Morice Equipment (with or without the belt).

For everyday use near civilization where I don't foresee needing to deal with complex systems. For example, on our business trips to Pont-Rouge, this bag would be suitable for 99% of situations.

Every detail is intentional and spot on! Allows for long and accurate throws for most people.

  • Sterling rope, 23 meters (75 feet). 6.5mm

  • Spectra core 2495 lbs (11 KN)

A product from Chile. They don't ship directly to Quebec. Personally, I went through Kc Bess, owner of Black Fox Rescue Institute, an authorized US retailer—great service! I also heard a rumor that https://kayakdetail.com/fr/ might carry the brand in the future.


WWTC (whitewater training center, with or without the belt).

When the exit is more engaging and I anticipate possibly having to use more advanced rescue techniques (e.g., Z-drag).


For the gear nerd looking for something more precise: smaller size or larger size capable of throwing a big bag without problems or for use in rafting/canoeing expeditions.

  • Several lengths/sizes available, depending on your needs.

A product from Hungary. Personally, I always deal directly with Gaspar (the owner?): gaspar.goncz@wwtc.info . Always friendly, helpful, and accommodating, I recommend him!




So!


See you on the water!


Alex




























 
 
 

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